Unlevel Edge
Unlevel Edge
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A better way to train:
When you train on a traditional flat edge, your longer fingers (middle and ring) are forced into a deeper half-crimp, approaching a full-crimp position. Your index and pinky are shorter and often remain in an open grip position. Therefore, a flat edge is not ideal for finger strength gains, or ergonomics.
With the Unlevel Edge, each finger is put into a more ideal grip position by resting on its individual tier:
- Your middle two fingers are put into a more optimal half-crimp position instead of a deeper half or full-crimp position
- Your pinky and index finger are put into a more optimal half-crimp position instead of allowing them to remain in an open-grip position
The advantages of the Unlevel Edge compared to a flat edge:
- More strength gains and recruitment due to getting all your fingers involved
- Long-term strength gains are achievable with a reduced injury risk
- No more overloading your middle two fingers - which are some of the most commonly injured, often because we're climbing on flat edges, and then hanging on flat edges, simply overloading them over time
The Frictitious Unlevel Edge design:
Don't let its sleek design fool you - The Unlevel Edge is as comfortable as it is effective. Say hello to balanced finger recruitment and bid farewell to lazy fingers.
The edge depth is approximately 25mm. This is ideal for recruiting raw finger strength, and allows your longer fingers to go as deep as they like compared to your shorter fingers, unlike butting them up against the back of a constrained edge.
Materials
Materials
ABS Plastic
Weight
Weight
2.5 oz (with cord)
Dimensions
Dimensions
4" X 3" X 1.5"
Weight Limit
Weight Limit
250 lbs
Maximize Training
By getting into the ideal grip position for each finger, you can pull harder and recruit your fingers more effectively.
Ergonomics
Deload your over-used middle two fingers. Get all four fingers in a half crimp position to equalize the load, for long-term finger health.
Open-back design allows your longer fingers (middle and ring) to go deeper, preventing unnecessary crimping and promoting a more natural grip. This feature ensures your fingers are not forced against a uniform back, unlike traditional 20mm edges.
User-Friendly Design
Super simple to swap hands: Effortlessly switch hands during training sessions without losing momentum.
Doesn’t rotate: Ensures stability and consistency in every grip, allowing you to focus solely on your training.
One size fits all.
Designed to accommodate all hand sizes, providing a comfortable fit for every climber.
3D printed ABS plastic.
Just the right level of grip: The surface is smoother than a typical climbing hold but offers slightly more grip than wood. This balance allows for efficient and effective training without slipping.
Plastic is lightweight: Easy to carry and use anywhere, yet durable enough to withstand rigorous training sessions.
Keep it clean: unlike wood, you can wash chalk buildup off
The Bottom Line
This has become our go-to training and warm-up tool.
We can't tell you the full history of the unlevel edge technology but it's been around for quite some time. Since Tyler Nelson - an influential climbing coach and training expert - popularized the concept, we've been prototyping and testing our own designs. If you want to learn more, check out Tyler Nelson on Instagram (@C4HP) or his climbing training and physical therapy company: Camp 4 Human Performance.