The 3 Most Effective Ways to use the Port-A-Edges Portable Hangboard

This article focus's on the 3 most fundamental, simple and effective to use the Port-A-Edges to your advantage (although, not the only ways as you'll find out), to train your fingers, your full body strength, and to warm up at the crag. 

We've designed the Port-A-Edges to effectively replace a bulky hangboard.

We wanted to put together a simple list of the 3 most effective Port-A-Edges uses for people to reference here, be on the look for future blogs including specific workout regiments, winter training plans, etc, etc. 

First off, here's how to access the Port-A-Edges 6 edge sizes and jug (Note this is an old design that included a 6mm edge): 

 

 

Finger Strength Training: 

  • Min Edge Hangs: build strength and confidence on small edges 
    • Complete a full body warm up, including warming up the fingers
    • Determine the smallest edge you can hang for 10s
    • Hang that edge for 5 sets of 8s hangs
    • Rest at least 3min between sets (great time to stretch or super set other exercises!)

    Portable Hangboard The Port-A-Edges Finger Training

    Min-Edge training is perfect to get your fingers ready to fire on small crimps. Not only will you build strength with this protocol, but you'll build neurological adaptations that will allow your fingers to perform on smaller and smaller holds as you progress through the edge sizes. 

    Alternatively, when there isn't anything to hang from, you want to de-stress your shoulders, or specifically target your fingers, "no-hangs" are a great option. 

    • "No-Hangs": picking up heavy things with your fingers
      • Complete a full body warm up, including warming up the fingers
      • Choose an edge size that is too challenging for you to hang 
      • Start with a low weight (say 10lbs) and pick it up with that edge
      • Determine a weight that you can hold for 12s 
      • Pick that weight up with each hand for 5 sets of 8s "no-hangs" 
      • Rest at least 3min between sets (great time to stretch or super set other exercises!)

     

     

    Progress this exercise by decreasing the edge size, or upping the weight. 

     

    Upper Body Strength Training: 

      • Rows: 
        • Complete a full body warm up
        • Edges so they hang about 4ft off the ground
        • Sit down, grab the jugs (or an edge of your choosing!), and with arms extended, align your head all the way to your feet in a straight line 
        • Complete 3 sets 8 rows by pulling as high up as possible and keeping a straight torso

      Portable Hangboard Port-A-Edges Strength Training

      Rows, the fundamental climbing movement. Having the ability to pull yourself into the wall is absolutely crucial. Progress this exercise by gripping an edge instead of the jugs for a more sport specific movement, or up the intensity by moving to one arm rows (to be covered in a future blog post). 

      Warming up at the crag:

      When you can't hang the Port-A-Edges at the crag, sit pulls are your best bet and will  fire up the core, fingers and your pulling muscles.  

      • "Sit-Pulls": fire up the fingers and forearms 
        • do a full body warm up before climbing and attempting these
        • sit with legs extended and wrap Port-A-Edges around your feet
        • On a medium edge, complete "crimp ups" maintaining pulling tension 
          • **This is done by allowing the hands to go from an open grip to a half crimp grip while keeping tension on the cords 
        • Complete 3 sets of 15 
        • After the crimp ups, move to a smaller edge your comfortable with, and pull in the half crimp against your feet with 80% effort
        • Complete 3 sets of 5 pulls 

      "Crimp Ups" and "Sit Pulls" in the seated position will rapidly fire up your pulling muscles, finger flexors, and core. Completing the "Crimp Ups" first will get the blood flowing and create a stimulus, followed by 80% effort "Sit-Pulls" you'll be ready to pull hard on real rock. 

      Thanks for reading. Be on the look out for my training regiment this winter exclusively using the Port-A-Edges soon! 

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

           

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